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'2015-09-09 16:57:37'

'2015-09-09 16:58:01'

'39050'

''

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'<p style="text-align: center; ">
	<img alt="" src="/uploads/allimg/150909/3-150Z91AKcD.jpg" style="width: 350px; height: 425px; " /></p>
<p>
	　　坐在維也納人的&ldquo;客廳&rdquo;喝咖啡</p>
<p>
	　　不誇張地說，維也納幾乎是十步一個咖啡館。從街角供人們站着喝的咖啡亭、大學附近學子聚集的咖啡店，到劇院旁、皇城邊富麗豪華的咖啡廳，大都早晨6點半即開張，直到凌晨纔打烊，從醒來到入睡，維也納人隨時可以走出家門點上一杯。喝咖啡在維也納已成爲生活的一部分。在悠閒的氣氛中，人們只要付一杯咖啡的錢，就可以在這裏會友、下棋、看書、讀報。他們說，咖啡館是&ldquo;爲了不被時間消磨而消磨時間的地方(aplace for people who have to kill time in order not to be killed by it)&rdquo;。</p>
<p>
	　　作爲遊客，想要了解本地人的生活，最好的方式就是泡在咖啡館。如果你是個攝影師，咖啡館則提供了最好的氛圍和各式人物狀態。要提醒的是，不論你的創作多麼投入都不要打擾到對方，因爲對保守的歐洲人來說，被陌生人的鏡頭盯着並不是一件很愉快的事情。</p>
<p>
	　　維也納的咖啡文化傳統可追溯到300多年以前。當時土耳其人在圍攻維也納的戰爭中被擊敗，撤退時留下了一些在當時的維也納仍然完全不爲人所知的生咖啡豆，一個聰明的商人買下了這些咖啡豆並開了維也納第一家咖啡館。如今，維也納的咖啡館依然努力保持着古老、精緻的生活方式。店內永遠乾淨、溫馨，侍者依舊穿着黑、白兩色的制服，打着整齊的領結，忙碌地穿梭於桌子之間。他們對熟客從不用&ldquo;先生&rdquo;稱呼，而是親切地叫名字或是稱呼職務。不用客人說，侍者就會把他們帶到偏愛的位置坐下，然後遞上最愛看的報紙。</p>
<p>
	　　在維也納點咖啡，千萬不要隨口說：&ldquo;來一杯coffee&rdquo;，這樣會讓服務員不知所措，因爲維也納的咖啡種類繁多，從清咖啡到各種成色的加奶咖啡，至少有數十個品種，而且都有各自的名稱。最受當地人喜愛的是一種濃奶咖啡Melange，據說最早時咖啡館生意並不好，維也納人還是更喜歡喝茶。後來，店家在咖啡里加入很多牛奶創造出Melange，效果出奇的好，從17世紀80年代至今一直風行。</p>
<p>
	　　除了咖啡，維也納咖啡館的甜品同樣聞名於世。維也納人喜歡甜食，咖啡館的糕點櫥櫃都擺有口味豐富、造型精緻的甜點。其中最有名的當屬巧克力蛋糕Sacher Torte。爲了這款蛋糕的冠名權，兩家老牌咖啡館Sacher和Demel打了10年官司，爭得&ldquo;頭破血流&rdquo;，最後以Sacher咖啡館的勝出告終，從此享有能以&ldquo;Sachertorte&rdquo;的連體形式給蛋糕冠名的特權。而其他蛋糕屋、咖啡館只能在單詞中間添加空格，變成&ldquo;Sacher Torte&rdquo;。品嚐沙赫蛋糕的最妙方式莫過於用叉子切下一小塊後送入嘴中，然後再搭配上附送的無糖生鮮奶油。因爲蛋糕本身多少有些偏硬、偏幹，而奶油正好起到潤滑作用，並降低了蛋糕的糖度，進而提升了整體口感。若再品上一口微苦的咖啡，那就是極致的美妙體驗了。</p>
<p>
	　　Demel雖然輸了官司，但其店內誘人的各式蛋糕、巧克力、冰激凌等甜品在城中絕對數一數二。這家店坐落在霍夫堡皇宮附近，是哈布斯堡皇室的御用糕點屋。當年奧地利皇帝弗朗茨&middot;約瑟夫一世都欽點他家的點心，這裏的薰衣草糖也是茜茜公主的最愛。因爲當時哈布斯堡王朝遵循的是嚴格的西班牙宮廷禮儀，皇帝開始用餐時其他人才能跟着就餐，而皇帝用畢其他人也都要停止。不少王室貴族會在餐後覺得沒喫飽，而去宮門外的Demel咖啡店買糕點。至今，該店服務員的言行仍嚴格遵守當年接待皇室貴族的標準。如若留心，會發現他們依然沿襲着傳統、古老的德式的禮貌用語，以第三人稱稱呼客人。</p>
<p>
	　　那些不拍照不得食的食物拍攝控，面對咖啡館精美的餐具、多樣的甜品和咖啡，一定激動不已。當地人很難理解對着食物不喫卻狂拍照的行爲，不妨在店員路過時熱情地讚揚食物的美麗與美味，他們一定很開心，說不定還會給你展示看家美食哦!</p>
<p>
	　　維也納咖啡館的特別之處，還在於它的文化氣息。在咖啡還沒有被廣泛接受的時候，很多咖啡館以免費提供多種報紙閱覽服務來吸引顧客。因爲當時報紙很貴，即便是名流和知識分子也很難負擔得起。於是，他們會點上一杯咖啡，在這裏翻閱來自歐洲各國的報紙，瞭解最新的時事消息。看累了，便互相聊天甚至辯論，整整消磨一天也不會無聊。尤其在19世紀末到20世紀初，維也納咖啡館是藝術家、思想家與知識分子的聚集地。他們在氣氛優雅、溫暖且充滿人文氣息的咖啡館裏尋求靈感激盪思想。在那個通訊不發達的年代，有些人甚至把咖啡館的地址和公用電話寫在個人聯繫卡上，以確保最便捷的聯絡。</p>
<p>
	　　今天，維也納人喜歡如數家珍地告訴遊人，哪些藝術家、作家是哪家咖啡館的常客，哪些政治家愛在哪家咖啡館與記者們見面。維也納最出名的咖啡館是市中心的中央咖啡館(Caf&eacute; Central)。19世紀後期，這裏是維也納知識階層重要的聚會地點，是奧地利許多詩歌、劇本、小說的搖籃，當年莫扎特、貝多芬、舒伯特、約翰&middot;施特勞斯父子，畫家克林姆特、席勒、弗洛伊德等都是這裏的常客。文學家Alfred Polga甚至還寫有《中央咖啡館理論》，論點是：&ldquo;中央咖啡館是一個與衆不同的咖啡館，它是一種世界觀。而這種世界觀最深刻的內涵是，不觀世界，有什麼可觀的呢?&rdquo;今天的中央咖啡館生意十分興隆，但不管裏面多麼擁擠，客人依舊是點一杯咖啡想待多久就待多久，這是維也納咖啡館百年不變的傳統。</p>
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