4.1.4

'127743'

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'全世界最獨特、豐富、令人着迷的複雜氣味 也門咖啡特點風味口感'

'/uploads/allimg/181210/16-1Q210161345c3-lp.jpg'

'全世界,獨特,豐富,令人,着迷,複雜,氣味,也門,咖啡,特點'

'專業咖啡知識交流 更多咖啡豆資訊 請關注咖啡工房（微信公衆號cafe_style ） 雖說精品浪潮是「工藝取代機械」的復興，但主宰供求的，仍然離不開市'

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'未知'

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'2018-12-10 16:12:05'

'2018-12-10 16:14:07'

'126974'

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	<h2 style="padding: 0px 0px 0px 28px; margin: 0px 0px 0.8em; outline: 0px; zoom: 1; font-size: 19px; font-weight: normal; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); box-sizing: border-box; border-width: 0px 0px 2px; border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-color: rgb(80, 193, 233); font-stretch: inherit; line-height: 30px; font-family: \'ヒラギノ角ゴ Pro W3\', \'Hiragino Kaku Gothic Pro\', メイリオ, Meiryo, \'ＭＳ Ｐゴシック\', sans-serif; vertical-align: baseline; position: relative; width: auto;">
		<span style="padding: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; zoom: 1; font-size: 16px;"><font style="padding: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; zoom: 1; box-sizing: border-box; vertical-align: inherit;">專業咖啡知識交流 更多咖啡豆資訊 請關注咖啡工房（微信公衆號cafe_style ）</font></span></h2>
	<ul style="padding-right: 0px; padding-left: 0px; margin: 0px 0px 20px; outline: 0px; zoom: 1; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); line-height: inherit; box-sizing: border-box; border: 0px; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 14px; font-family: \'ヒラギノ角ゴ Pro W3\', \'Hiragino Kaku Gothic Pro\', メイリオ, Meiryo, \'ＭＳ Ｐゴシック\', sans-serif; vertical-align: baseline; list-style: none outside;">
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	雖說精品浪潮是「工藝取代機械」的復興，但主宰供求的，仍然離不開市場。下游業者會以不同的衝法去表達不同咖啡的風格，而身處上游的農民亦會因應市場潮流而研發特色的處理法。但原來世上有一個國家，自六世紀起，一直沿用最原始的方式出產咖啡，它就是也門。</div>
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	　　也門（Yemen）位於西亞，與非洲大陸僅一步之遙。若沒有伊斯蘭教士在阿拉伯半島推廣，咖啡至今可能還是埃塞俄比亞的一株野生植物。相傳咖啡是在六世紀屬埃塞俄比亞統治時傳入，並命名爲Qahwa，即阿拉伯語紅酒之意。及後鄂圖曼帝國於1536年起入侵，控制了咖啡貿易。爲保障出口收益，當局嚴禁生豆出口，種子需先在沸水內煮過纔可出境。</div>
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	　　全球最乾旱國家之一</div>
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	　　也門是全球最乾旱的國家之一。經濟上，該國現時的四分三收入依賴石油出口，但世界銀行預測該國庫存將於2017年左右用歇。這個曾是以耕種自給自足的國度，現時八成農作物需依賴進口。原因包括人口膨脹，以及因當地人濫種跟咖啡一樣歷史悠久的耕作物「恰特草」（Qat，又稱阿拉伯茶）導致缺水有關。</div>
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	　　恰特草是阿拉伯半島居民常用的社交藥物。也門人喜歡在家中闢室宴客，嚼着恰特草跟朋友閒話家常。它含有興奮劑卡西酮（Cathinone），效果有如輕量安非他命，提神醒腦。但藥力減退後，服食者會感到沮喪。雖然世界衛生組織（WHO）未將它列爲毒品，但很多西方國家已禁止輸入。</div>
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	　　另一方面，也門自古已受乾旱問題困擾。它的主要城市都是依賴地下水源，當中農業佔用九成食水，而單是種植Qat，已花了不少水源，當局預計，首都薩那的地下儲水將於2017年用光。也門的城市大多建在高山之上，居民依賴政府或私營機構的井水維生。該國有多達4至7萬口井，有些深達地底600米。此外，抽水上山成本不菲，每年政府花在鑽探和泵水的費用便高達70億美元。所以當地近年決意取締既浪費水源，又不能充飢的恰特草，並以其他農作物代替。適逢精品咖啡熱潮興起，也門政府現正着力鼓勵農民改種耗水量比恰特草少一半的咖啡。</div>
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	　　沿用最原始方式生產</div>
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	　　真正的也門咖啡並不常見。農民待果實在樹上成熟後以人手採收，並在依山而建的石屋屋頂曬乾。去肉打殼的工序全依賴簡陋的石磨器材。由於交通不便，咖啡一般會經過數次轉手，途中混合了大小參差不齊、新舊豆不整的豆。再加上瑕疵多，處理不當。若以現代杯測標準，也門咖啡難達精品級數。但高質的也門咖啡帶有獨特味道﹕複雜的中東香料、臘肉、熟水果、酒香、可可，口感醇厚，回甘味濃。像榴槤和臭豆腐，喜歡和討厭的人各走極端。</div>
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	　　高質也門咖啡味道獨特</div>
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	　　產區方面，首都以西的Mattari以沉重口感和可可爲主。Harazi的酸度較高、口感較薄。其他還有Dhamari（又稱Anisi）、Ibb和以首都爲名的Sana&rsquo;a。但Sana&rsquo;a其實並非產區，而是中間人混合鄰近村落所蒐集的果實用作出口的品牌，就像以前的也門咖啡，都是採用港口名Mocha一樣。</div>
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	　　相對於世界上大多數咖啡產地的水洗法，也門咖啡完全以天然日曬處理，石磨（用兩塊石磨碾壓）去殼的過程使得碎豆夾雜，造成不整齊的外觀。生豆時常摻雜小樹枝、小石頭甚至曬乾的昆蟲（會在烘焙時篩除）。它也擁有全世界最獨特、豐富、令人着迷的複雜氣味：「紅酒香、狂野味、乾果味、藍莓、葡萄、肉桂、菸草、甜香料、原木味甚至巧克力味...」你可以看到各種各樣形容詞被用來形容也門摩卡！</div>
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	　　因爲含着果肉曬乾，咖啡漿果的風味有機會「滲入」咖啡豆，當咖啡果實掉落在非洲高原的乾燥土壤上，也會吸收周遭有機物質的味道，加上阿拉伯半島猛烈冬陽賦予的「太陽味」（你可以在曬過太陽的棉被上聞到類似味道）、果肉天然發酵的熟果發酵味、些許泥土味...遍佈海拔3000英尺至8000英尺的卅萬個咖啡農園，以及古老、100%有機的處理方式，造就世界上獨一無二的也門摩卡。</div>
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	　　在常見的也門摩卡里，以摩卡瑪妲莉（Mokha Mattari）最負盛名。產於Bani Matar（又名 Bany Mattar）省的瑪妲莉，是高海拔生產的咖啡，通常具有很好的紅酒香、乾燥水果味、口感厚實、深焙時常展現巧克力焦糖甜味。</div>
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	　　由於近年來也門政局不穩產量銳減，咖啡界名聲最響亮的摩卡瑪妲莉成爲摻水標靶，與較低等級劣質豆摻雜時有所聞。如今，即使標示爲瑪妲莉，也不是高品質的保證。品質好的瑪妲莉豆型細小，生豆有撲鼻甜酒香與適度的熟果發酵味，優良的瑪妲莉表現決不會讓咖啡老饕們失望！</div>
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	　　曾有咖啡專家這麼說：「也門摩卡味道太多樣化了，何止不同產地、不同樹種、不同批次有差，每一麻袋、甚至每一杯的風味都不一樣。」因爲他的複雜多變化，對咖啡烘焙者來說，如何烘焙出也門摩卡的最佳風味是一大挑戰！中淺焙展現的水果甜香、溫和、暖烘烘的日曬發酵味；深焙展現出的濃郁紅酒香、苦甜巧克力餘韻，在在令人品味再三，「餘味繞樑、三日不絕於口」。這也難怪有這麼多熱中此道的咖啡饕客，將也門摩卡列爲心目中的最愛！</div>
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	　　令人混淆的命名</div>
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	　　也門咖啡的命名方式至今沒有通用準則，也沒有官方的分級制度。當地居民自有一套分類系統，有數以百計的咖啡代號與名稱做爲內部分類用途，但是對於商業市場（出口用途）咖啡並不適用。在商業市場上，也門摩卡通常採用以下兩種命名方式之一：「產地名」，或是「樹種名」。</div>
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	　　也門摩卡瑪妲莉 Mokha Mattari 與也門摩卡山娜尼 Mokha San&#39;ani 是採「產地命名法」，分別表示生產自Bani Matar省，以及首都 San&#39;a附近的山坡地帶；也門摩卡依詩瑪莉Mokha Ismaili 則是採「樹種名稱命名法」，它的生產地是位於Bani Matar西南方的Hirazi</div>
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	　　摩卡瑪妲莉 （Mokha Mattari）：一種來自也門首都 Sana&#39;a 西部的 Bani Mattar（另一個寫法是Bany Mattar）省瑪妲莉的最負盛名的咖啡市場名。是高海拔生產的咖啡，通常具有很好的紅酒香、乾燥水果味、口感厚實、深焙時常展現巧克力苦甜味。品質好的瑪妲莉豆型細小，生豆有撲鼻甜酒香與適度的熟果發酵味。總是因爲更明顯的也門風格而成爲優勝者。</div>
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	　　摩卡山娜尼（Mokha San&rsquo;ani）：一個廣泛的來自也門首都 Sana&#39;a 西部一些種植地區咖啡的市場名。是首都San&#39;a附近山坡數萬個小農園的混合豆（左圖也門首都薩那）。栽植海拔比瑪妲莉稍低，一般而言，口感較瑪妲莉薄，酸性較低，但果香味良好，時常具有比瑪妲莉更好的熟果味與狂野味。根據我的經驗，近年來山娜尼品質落差甚大，時有風味平板、土腥味、發酵味過重的劣質貨，仔細的杯測挑選是咖啡商必作功課，絕對偷懶不得。</div>
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	　　摩卡依詩瑪莉（Mokha Ismaili ）：是傳統古老樹種之一，一種來自也門中部的着名咖啡的市場名，也被描述爲一種傳統的也門咖啡的植物分類，有較高的飲料質量。 種植海拔很高，在6500英尺以上，特色是豆子外型更渾圓，豆型比瑪妲莉更小，口感厚實，複雜度高，一般而言，經常有超越瑪妲莉的表現。這是產量最少，價格最昂貴的也門摩卡（也門摩卡本來已經不便宜）。品質優良的摩卡依詩瑪莉產於Hirazi區（雖然名氣如Bani Matar響亮，卻是也門當地口碑最好的產區）高山山側地帶，Hirazi區最高海拔高達8000英尺！</div>
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	　　摩卡瑞米（Mokha Rimi）：產於Djebel Remi( 又名Raimi, Rayma)區，品質類似山娜尼，摩卡瑞米發酵味通常稍重，偶爾出現驚人濃郁的葡萄乾甜香，烘焙妥當的話，咖啡豆聞起來就像打開一瓶濃郁的果醬。</div>
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	　　摩卡雅菲（Mokha Yafeh）：產於也門南部Yafeh（又名Yaffe）省，屬於不常見的葉門摩卡，是也門唯一的「南部口味」，產量也不多，幾乎都銷往鄰近的阿拉伯聯合大公國，在國際精品咖啡市場已經很少見到蹤影。</div>
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	　　阿拉伯莫卡：一種來自阿拉伯半島西南端與紅海接壤的在也門山區的單一起源的咖啡。世界上最好的栽培咖啡，以它的高黏度和特殊的豐富酒的酸度而出名。</div>
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	　　也門摩卡因種栽區的不同而成就了不同流派，就好比MATTARI摩卡的巧克力味和酸味，SANANI摩卡的粗野和芬芳。</div>
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	　　也門咖啡的特色：</div>
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	　　儘管也門咖啡質量上乘，滑膩芳香，但是也有不盡人意的地方，那就是質量不能得到持續保證，</div>
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	　　其咖啡豆等級的劃分也是不確定的。傳統上認爲，也門最好的咖啡豆來自馬塔裏(Mattari)，沙爾奇(Sharki)次之，</div>
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	　　然後是薩那尼(Sanani)。這些咖啡豆咖啡因含量低。深焙的也門咖啡時常顯現巧克力般的苦甜韻味，</div>
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	&nbsp; &nbsp;　影響今日加入巧克力醬調味的花式咖啡也被冠上「摩卡」一詞。</div>
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	　　也門咖啡擁有全世界最獨特、豐富、令人着迷的複雜氣味：紅酒香、狂野味、乾果味、藍莓、葡萄、肉桂、菸草、甜香料、原木味甚至巧克力味，你可以看到各種各樣形容詞被用在葉門摩卡之上。</div>
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	　　如同摩卡的含意有許多種，摩卡的英文也有各式拼寫法：Moka、Moca、Mocca都是常見的拼法，在也門咖啡的麻袋與文件上當地的拼寫法就多達四種：「Mokha」、「Makha」、「Morkha」、「Mukha」，代表的意思都是一樣的。<br />
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&nbsp; &nbsp; <strong>　　相關推薦：</strong><a href="https://www.gafei.com/yemenkafei/20180805122056.html">也門咖啡的描述風味口感特點 也門摩卡咖啡好喝嗎？</a>
<h2 style="padding: 0px 0px 0px 28px; margin: 0px 0px 0.8em; outline: 0px; zoom: 1; font-size: 19px; font-weight: normal; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); caret-color: rgb(51, 51, 51); box-sizing: border-box; border-width: 0px 0px 2px; border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-color: rgb(80, 193, 233); font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; line-height: 30px; font-family: &quot;ヒラギノ角ゴ Pro W3&quot;, &quot;Hiragino Kaku Gothic Pro&quot;, メイリオ, Meiryo, &quot;ＭＳ Ｐゴシック&quot;, sans-serif; vertical-align: baseline; position: relative; width: auto;">
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'全世界,獨特,豐富,令人,着迷,複雜,氣味,也門,咖啡,特點'

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'1544429525'

'1544429647'

'全世界最獨特、豐富、令人着迷的複雜氣味 也門咖啡特點風味口感_精品咖啡豆_中國咖啡網'

'全世界,獨特,豐富,令人,着迷,複雜,氣味,也門,咖啡,特點'

'專業咖啡知識交流 更多咖啡豆資訊 請關注咖啡工房（微信公衆號cafe_style ） 雖說精品浪潮是「工藝取代機械」的復興，但主宰供求的，仍然離不開市'

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