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我曾不止一次的看到，前來參加品鑑培訓課程的咖啡愛好者們在品嚐完咖啡之後，驚喜之情溢於言表。這種驚喜來自於咖啡那深邃又熟悉的口味，人們想不到，原來一杯簡單的咖啡還能有如此豐富的口感，原來我們在咖啡中還能喝出與許多常見水果、堅果相類似的味道。<br />
<span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-size: 12px; vertical-align: baseline;">咖啡的味道總能給人們帶來驚喜，例如哥斯達黎加咖啡中那濃郁的杏醬味和乾果味，蜜處理巴西咖啡厚重的焦糖和巧克力味，日曬巴拿馬瑰夏咖啡濃濃的玫瑰茄、檸檬糖、草莓奶油和水果果凍的香味。 如果你對化學足夠了解，你就會發現咖啡其實是世界上最爲複雜的飲料。對於咖啡的感官體驗以及口味描述，業內說法衆多，但殊途同歸，每一種理論都借鑑了紅酒品鑑的基本方法，那就是對咖啡中的口味進行類比。 </span><br />
<span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-size: 12px; vertical-align: baseline;">我經常會聽到顧客這樣問道：“你在咖啡里加橘子醬了嗎？”在我看來，這是一種寶貴的契機，是消費者在探索精品咖啡品鑑之路上邁出的第一步。</span><br />
<span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-size: 12px; vertical-align: baseline;">咖啡中的許多口味與我們日常生活中經常接觸到的味道頗爲相似，例如“樹莓味”。但其實咖啡中並沒有樹莓所包含的化學物質。因此，“類比法”的好處在於，它不僅能夠幫助我們將咖啡中的口味與常見味道相關聯，又能凸顯出二者之間的區別。 瞭解並使用“類比法”需要品鑑者記住足夠多的口味，以便於咖啡中的味道建立聯繫。我個人更喜歡稱味覺記憶爲“味覺想象力”。品鑑者在記住大量味道的同時，還必須擁有足夠的想象力，令咖啡的口味與記憶中的味道產生關聯，例如在品嚐肯尼亞咖啡時，咖啡的味道會讓你想到黑醋栗。 </span><br />
<span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-size: 12px; vertical-align: baseline;">雖然這聽起來頗爲複雜，但其實在現實生活中，“味覺想象力”是可以訓練的。例如Vegetime的味道是鮮味/鹹味十足的，你還能找出和Vegetime味道相似、但種類完全不同的食材或者食物嗎？ 我們在品鑑咖啡時使用“類比法”的原因在於，咖啡其實是一艘“味覺航母”。咖啡包含着上百種、甚至上千種有機化學物質。咖啡口味的複雜程度遠遠超過了交響樂。使用“類比法”形容咖啡的口味可以說是一種“公認的味覺想象”，而正是這種公認的味覺想象使得處於同行業當中的從業者和咖啡愛好者有了相互交流的工具。 </span><br />
<span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-size: 12px; vertical-align: baseline;">在其中，最具權威性的咖啡口味品鑑法便是美國精品咖啡協會（SCAA）頒佈的“咖啡風味輪”，而最近，美國精品咖啡協會首次對“風味輪”進行了修訂更新。新版的“風味輪”凝聚了衆多科學家和咖啡感官學家的智慧。爲了進一步完善老版“風味輪”，來自美國精品咖啡協會、世界咖啡研究組織（WRC）和感官學界、科學界、商界的上百名精英人士共同努力，耗時三年，不斷將咖啡感官學研究引向深入。值得一提的是，此次“風味輪”收錄的詞彙大多來自於世界咖啡研究組織出版的《咖啡感官學指南》一書，其權威性已達到世界最高水平。 </span><br />
<span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-size: 12px; vertical-align: baseline;">《咖啡感官學圖譜》是一本濃縮了所有咖啡可認識口味和相應專有形容詞彙的工具類圖書，書中還用量化的方法，對每種口味的濃度作出了數值爲0-15的界定。讓人印象最爲深刻的是，該圖書還對如何複製每一種特定濃度的口味作出了詳細說明。 例如，書中對“葡萄乾味”的形容是：“濃縮的、極甜的、微酸的、棕色的、水果味的、花香味的幹葡萄味道。” 書中同時寫道，想要複製5.5濃度的味道，美國精品咖啡協會建議將半杯切碎的葡萄乾倒入3/4杯水中，用微波爐高火加熱2分鐘，後過濾雜質，倒入1盎司的杯中。除此之外，書中還給出了其他複製該口味的具體方法，甚至對不同品種的葡萄乾作出了不同解釋。 </span><br />
<span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-size: 12px; vertical-align: baseline;">這本《咖啡感官學圖譜》爲整個精品咖啡業的發展提供了強有力的科學依據。有了這本圖書，我們便能夠用“類比法”更加精確地形容咖啡的口味。此外，我們還可以利用這本圖書對咖啡品鑑師進行訓練，鍛鍊他們的“味覺想象力”。新版“風味輪”的結構清楚，基礎口味，例如水果味、糖味、堅果味、蔬菜味、香草味、香料味等之間的勾稽關係較爲清晰。從業者完全可以把它當做是專業工具，引導咖啡愛好者們逐步走向深入。此外，新版“風味輪”在行業內部將得到廣泛普及，無論是在咖啡種植園、種植者聯盟、杯測實驗室、烘焙工作室還是咖啡廳，無論是在世界上的哪個國家，人們都可以利用它來更加深入、全面的瞭解咖啡，認識咖啡。 </span></div>
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'pdirname' => 'kafeixinwen/zixun/',
'child' => 0,
'childids' => 320,
'thumb' => '',
'show' => '1',
'setting' =>
array (
'edit' => 1,
'disabled' => 0,
'getchild' => 1,
'linkurl' => '',
'urlrule' => 3,
'seo' =>
array (
'list_title' => '[第{page}頁{join}]{catpname}{join}{modname}{join}{SITE_NAME}',
'list_keywords' => '',
'list_description' => '',
),
'template' =>
array (
'pagesize' => 20,
'mpagesize' => 20,
'page' => 'page.html',
'list' => 'list.html',
'category' => 'category.html',
'search' => 'search.html',
'show' => 'show.html',
),
'cat_field' => '',
'module_field' => '',
'html' => 0,
),
'displayorder' => '0',
'acount' => '13',
'namerule' => '{typedir}/{Y}/{M}{D}/{aid}.html',
'namerule2' => '{typedir}/list_{tid}_{page}.html',
'mid' => 'article',
'pcatpost' => 1,
'topid' => '1',
'domain' => '',
'catids' =>
array (
0 => '320',
),
'is_post' => 1,
'mobile_domain' => '',
'tid' => 1,
'url' => 'https://gafei.com/list-zixun/waiguokafeixinxi.html',
'total' => 13,
'field' =>
array (
),
),
323 =>
array (
'id' => '323',
'pid' => '2',
'pids' => '0,1,2',
'name' => '7月資訊',
'dirname' => '7yuezixun',
'pdirname' => 'kafeixinwen/zixun/',
'child' => 0,
'childids' => 323,
'thumb' => '',
'show' => '1',
'setting' =>
array (
'edit' => 1,
'disabled' => 0,
'getchild' => 1,
'linkurl' => '',
'urlrule' => 3,
'seo' =>
array (
'list_title' => '[第{page}頁{join}]{catpname}{join}{modname}{join}{SITE_NAME}',
'list_keywords' => '',
'list_description' => '',
),
'template' =>
array (
'pagesize' => 20,
'mpagesize' => 20,
'page' => 'page.html',
'list' => 'list.html',
'category' => 'category.html',
'search' => 'search.html',
'show' => 'show.html',
),
'cat_field' => '',
'module_field' => '',
'html' => 0,
),
'displayorder' => '0',
'acount' => '1',
'namerule' => '{typedir}{Y}{M}{D}{aid}.html',
'namerule2' => '{typedir}/list_{tid}_{page}.html',
'mid' => 'article',
'pcatpost' => 1,
'topid' => '1',
'domain' => '',
'catids' =>
array (
0 => '323',
),
'is_post' => 1,
'mobile_domain' => '',
'tid' => 1,
'url' => 'https://gafei.com/list-7yuezixun.html',
'total' => 1,
'field' =>
array (
),
),
) |
| urlrule |
'/views-52787-[page].html' |
| fix_html_now_url |
'' |
| my_web_url |
'https://cdn.gafei.com/views-52787' |
| get |
array (
's' => 'article',
'c' => 'show',
'id' => '52787',
'm' => 'index',
) |
